Rome Journal

Andrew moves to Italy. Hilarity ensues.

Saturday, September 17, 2005

ricotta di bufalicious

There's mozzarella di bufala, of course. Everybody knows about that. Not so easy to get in the US (though not super-difficult, either), but something you see all over the place in Italy. There's a dairy up the street from me that trucks great mozz in from Campania every morning, and I've been picking up a ball or two every so often. Who doesn't like buffalo mozzarella? Nobody, that's who.

As far as I knew, mozzarella was the only cheese you could really make from buffalo milk. That is, until this last week when I had the ricotta as part of a cheese plate at Vinando, a great wine bar in the Ghetto of Rome. I thought it was some sort of mild goat cheese at first: pure white, firm but ever so slightly creamy. Then I tasted it.

In general, my feeling is that people who describe food as "a revelation" should be stoned to death with the collected works of Elizabeth David. It's such a stupid cliche. But it's a stupid cliche I'm trying hard to avoid when describing this cheese. Creamy, yes, but with a slight graininess on the tongue. A little bit sweet, not sugary, but with the unctuous sweetness of really good pure milk that hasn't been sissied down by taking out all the fatty goodness. And-- this is the part that just blew me away-- a fruitiness to it (seriously, like apples) that isn't like any other cheese I've tasted before.

My complaint is: why was I not informed of the existence of ricotta di bufala until this week? I demand that the entire nation of Italy be called to account for keeping me in the dark until now, condemning me to decades of pointless buffalo-free existence, and leading me to believe that ricotta had to be a bland, dull, flavorless mush, fit only to live in a tub and only emerge when it's pimped up with sugar and stuffed in a pastry, or slapped between layers of watery lasagna. Damn you, Italy! (But bless you, too.)

3 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

OK - I linked to the menu of this fabo wine bar and need to know what is Crema di Lardo al Chianti € 6,00 Lard cream of Chianti wine. Lard - Cream - Wine - Odd!?!

Have you had it - seen it?

5:02 PM  
Blogger Andrew said...

Hi Anna,

I think it sounds weirder than it really is. Lardo isn't exactly lard (more like a really fatty prosciutto): we had a couple of slices at that dinner and it was great. Crema di lardo I haven't tried, but it's a sort of a paste made with lardo and herbs. My guess is that this is with herbs and wine; and since it's a product that often comes from Tuscany, Chianti makes sense...

5:35 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

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10:12 PM  

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